The first time I painted a room, I made every mistake you can possibly make. I did not use drop cloths — I figured I would be careful. Paint dripped onto the hardwood floor. I did not tape the edges — I figured I had a steady hand. The ceiling line looked like a seismograph reading. I used the cheapest roller at the hardware store, and it shed fuzz into the paint, leaving a textured finish that I later learned is not a design trend.

That was six years ago, and I have painted seven rooms since then. Each one has been better than the last, and the room I finished last month — my home office — looks like a professional did it. The difference between disaster and success comes down to preparation, which is the least fun part of painting and also the part that determines everything.

The first thing I do now before even opening a paint can is clear the room completely if possible, or push everything to the center and cover it with plastic sheeting if not. I learned the hard way that moving furniture six inches away from the wall is not enough. You will bump into it, you will drip on it, and you will regret not taking the extra ten minutes to move it properly. I tape the plastic sheeting to the floor with painter’s tape so it does not shift.

Drop cloths are non-negotiable. I use canvas drop cloths rather than plastic ones because plastic is slippery and paint stays wet on top of it. Canvas absorbs small drips and stays in place. I cover the entire floor of the room, overlapping the edges by at least six inches.

Taping is the part I used to rush through, and it showed. Now I use good-quality painter’s tape — the blue kind, not the cheapest option — and I run a damp cloth over the tape after applying it to activate the adhesive and create a seal. This prevents paint from bleeding under the tape. I tape every edge: baseboards, ceiling, window frames, door frames, and electrical outlets after removing the cover plates. Removing cover plates takes two minutes and makes the finished job look infinitely better than trying to paint around them.

The paint I choose has evolved over the years as well. I now spend the extra money on paint with primer built in, especially when I am covering a dark color with a lighter one. My office had been a deep navy blue, and I was painting it a warm off-white. The paint-and-primer combination covered it in two coats when I expected to need three. The higher upfront cost actually saved me money because I used less paint.

The technique that leveled up my results the most is something called “cutting in.” Before using a roller, I use a two-inch angled brush to paint a strip about three inches wide along all the edges — ceiling line, baseboards, corners, and around trim. This creates a border that the roller cannot reach. The key to a clean cut-in line is loading the brush with paint but not too much, and then painting in long, steady strokes. I brace my elbow against the wall or ladder for stability, which reduces the wobble that creates those wavy ceiling lines I produced in my first attempt.

For the roller work, I use a technique I learned from a painter friend: roll in a “W” pattern rather than straight up and down. Start near a corner, roll a W shape about three feet wide, then fill it in with vertical strokes. This distributes paint evenly and avoids the visible roller marks that happen when you just go up and down. I also use an extension pole, even for walls. It reduces fatigue and helps you apply even pressure across the entire wall surface.

The final tip that made a difference: after finishing a wall, I shine a bright work light across the surface from different angles. This reveals any thin spots or drips I missed while the paint is still wet and can be easily fixed. There is nothing more frustrating than noticing a missed spot the next day when the paint has dried.

Painting a room is physically tiring, but the transformation is immediate and satisfying. A weekend of work and about $150 in supplies completely changes how a room feels.