I did not think I needed a countertop ice maker. Then we hosted a barbecue for twelve people and ran out of ice before the burgers were done. Someone had to make an emergency convenience store run. Three bags of ice, eight dollars, and a lot of melted water in the cooler by the end of the party.

I borrowed four different models from friends and family and tested them over a month. Here is what I learned about which ones are worth your counter space.

What to look for

Ice production speed is the most important number. Most countertop models make nine bullet-shaped ice cubes in six to eight minutes per cycle. That sounds fast until you realize nine cubes is maybe two drinks. For a family of four, you want a model that can produce at least twenty-six pounds per day — that means it can keep up with dinner and evening use.

Bin capacity matters more than you think. The bin holds the ice after it drops. A small bin means the machine stops producing once it is full, and you have to empty it into the freezer to make more. Look for a bin that holds at least one and a half pounds of ice.

The best overall: Frigidaire EFIC189

Produces nine cubes in under seven minutes — the fastest in our test. Twenty-six pounds per day capacity, quiet operation, and the bullet-shaped ice is the perfect size for standard cups. The bin is small at one and a half pounds but the machine refills it quickly. Around ninety dollars, which is mid-range for the category. The control panel is simple: on, off, and an indicator when it needs more water or the bin is full.

Downside: no self-cleaning cycle. You have to drain and wipe it manually once a week. Not a dealbreaker for me but worth knowing.

Best budget pick: AGLucky Portable

About sixty dollars. Produces nine cubes in eight minutes, slightly slower than the Frigidaire but the difference is barely noticeable. It is compact enough to fit under cabinets that the taller models cannot. Good for apartments with limited counter space. The tradeoff: it is louder. Not conversation-stopping loud, but you hear the compressor cycle.

Skip: the sub-fifty-dollar no-name brands

I tried one of the forty-dollar Amazon specials. It made ice. It also leaked water onto the counter three times in two weeks because the drain plug did not seal properly. The ice cubes were inconsistent sizes and melted faster than ice from the other models — likely because the freezing plate was lower quality and the ice did not freeze as solid. Spend at least sixty dollars to avoid frustration.