The caulk around my tub was black. Not stained — black. Mold had moved in and made itself at home. I ignored it for an embarrassingly long time because I thought re-caulking was hard. It is not hard. It is tedious. That is different. It took me an hour and cost about $12.

Removing Old Caulk Is the Hard Part

Buy a caulk removal tool — it is $5 and shaped like a hook with a sharp edge. A utility knife works too but you are more likely to scratch the tub. Score along both edges of the old caulk line, then peel it out in one long strip if you are lucky.

For stubborn residue, there is caulk remover gel. Squirt it on, wait the time on the bottle (usually 2-3 hours), then scrape. The gel softens silicone so it peels off instead of fighting you millimeter by millimeter.

The surface must be bone dry before applying new caulk. Not damp. Not “I wiped it with a towel.” Dry. Use a hair dryer on the joint for two minutes. Any moisture and the new caulk will not bond.

Applying New Caulk

1. Buy silicone caulk labeled “kitchen and bath” — it has mildewcide built in. Clear silicone for white tubs, white silicone for colored tubs.
2. Cut the nozzle at a 45-degree angle. Start small — you can always cut more but you cannot uncut it. A hole the size of a pencil tip is right for most bathroom joints.
3. Apply steady pressure on the caulk gun trigger and move slowly — about an inch per second. The bead should fill the gap without overflowing.
4. Smooth the bead immediately with a wet finger or a caulk smoothing tool. Wet your finger with water mixed with a drop of dish soap — it prevents the caulk from sticking to your skin.
5. Do one continuous line per joint. Stopping and starting creates weak points.
6. Do not use the tub for 24 hours. The caulk needs to cure. A shower the next morning will ruin everything.

My tub looks like someone who has their life together lives here. It took an hour and now I notice bad caulk everywhere I go — old houses, nice hotels, friends’ apartments. It is a blessing and a curse.